Layers of Smyrna
Kadifekale at golden hour
The 'Velvet Castle' above the city — the widest view of the gulf you can get for free.
Why do it?
Kadifekale sits on the hill where ancient Smyrna was refounded — the fortress at the top has watched the gulf for over two thousand years, and its walls frame the widest panorama of Izmir there is: the whole bay, both shores, the ferries drawing lines across the water. Women from the surrounding neighborhood cook gözleme on the castle grounds, which makes the view come with lunch.
The Smileys Take
Go up by taxi or bus and walk down toward the Agora — the descent through the old streets is part of it. We'd keep this a daytime-to-golden-hour visit rather than a night one; the area around the castle is a modest, working-class neighborhood and the castle grounds empty out after dark. Tea and gözleme on the ramparts with that view is one of the city's great cheap pleasures.
Explore nearby
Do it with people
The Smileys community does things like this every week — organized events, spontaneous hangouts, and visitors looking for company.
Tips from Smileys
More like this
There's always more Izmir.