📖 The Istanbul Handbook

Understand Istanbul.

Practical answers for living, moving and navigating life in Istanbul — written by Smileys members who actually lived it.

Latest articles

Residence & Legalby Nate· 4 min read

Getting Your Residence Permit (İkamet) in Istanbul

Istanbul residence permit guide for expats: how the ikamet application actually runs, what trips people up at the PTT and the appointment, and why your address registration matters more than you think.

Money & Bankingby Nate· 3 min read

Opening a Bank Account in Istanbul

How to open a Turkish bank account as a foreigner in Istanbul: the tax number you need first, which documents actually get accepted, and why the branch you walk into matters more than the bank you choose.

Home & Housingby Nate· 5 min read

Renting an Apartment in Istanbul: What Foreigners Should Know

Renting an apartment in Istanbul as a foreigner is not just about finding a nice flat at the right price. The neighbourhood you choose can affect your daily life far more than the apartment itself. You need to understand deposits, agent fees, aidat, heating, the contract, address registration and, importantly, the questions that reveal problems before you sign.

Mobile & Digitalby Nate· 6 min read

Getting a SIM Card and Home Internet in Türkiye

Getting connected in Türkiye is relatively easy — but there are a couple of Turkish-specific rules that can catch newcomers by surprise. The big one is the 120-day limit on foreign phones. You also need to understand how Turkish mobile lines are registered, what documents you need, and why checking the internet infrastructure in your actual apartment matters more than the provider's headline speed.

Healthcareby Nate· 3 min read Reviewed 10 Aug 2026

How Healthcare Actually Works in Istanbul

Istanbul healthcare for expats: when to use a pharmacy instead of a doctor, how to book a public hospital slot through MHRS, what private care actually costs, and who to call in an emergency.

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Quick reference

Apps, official sites and practical links for functioning in Istanbul — vetted by the Smileys team, updated regularly.

Getting Around

6 items·Updated Jul 2026

Essential Apps

6 items

Housing

6 items

Co-working & Remote Work

6 items

Practical Info

6 items
  • SIM CardDo First

    Buy a Turkcell tourist SIM at the airport or any Turkcell store. 30-day unlimited data plans from ~₺500.

    💡 Foreign phones must be registered within 120 days or they'll be blocked on Turkish networks. Ask the store about IMEI registration.

  • Currency & ATMs

    Turkish Lira (TRY). Use ATMs from major banks: Garanti, İş Bankası, Yapı Kredi. Avoid airport exchange booths.

    💡 Many restaurants and shops prefer cash. Always carry some TRY. Revolut and Wise work great here for card payments with interbank rates.

  • Emergency NumbersSave These

    112 — the single emergency number across Türkiye for ambulance, fire and police. Legacy numbers (155 police, 156 gendarmerie, 158 coast guard) still connect, but 112 covers everything.

  • VPN

    Some platforms are throttled or intermittently blocked in Turkey (Discord, some social media). A reliable VPN is recommended.

    💡 Mullvad and ProtonVPN work well. Set up before you arrive — download speeds from Turkey can make VPN setup slow.

  • Language Tips

    Turkish is phonetic — pronunciation is consistent once you learn it. Most younger locals in expat areas speak English.

    💡 'Teşekkürler' (teh-shek-kür-ler) = Thank you. 'Merhaba' = Hello. Learning a few words goes a long way with locals.

Visa & Residence

6 items·Updated May 2026

Healthcare

6 items·Updated May 2026
  • Private Hospitals (Expat Standard)Admin Pick

    Acıbadem, Memorial, American Hospital, Florence Nightingale, Liv Hospital. International standards, English-speaking staff, modern facilities. Walk-ins accepted at most.

    💡 Acıbadem and American Hospital have the deepest expat experience. Cash prices for a GP visit run ₺2,000–4,000 without insurance.

  • Pharmacies (Eczane)

    On every corner, marked with a red E. Pharmacists are highly trained and can dispense many things over-the-counter that need a prescription elsewhere (antibiotics, etc.).

    💡 Look for the green/red “Nöbetçi” sign for the 24-hour pharmacy in your district. Each neighbourhood rotates duty nightly.

  • Dental Care

    Excellent and significantly cheaper than Western Europe or the US. Cleanings ₺1,000–2,000; implants and cosmetic work also widely available. Many clinics cater to medical tourists.

    💡 Ask members for clinic recommendations — quality varies widely. Avoid the Sultanahmet “dental tourism” strip unless you know the dentist personally.

  • Mental Health & Therapy

    English-speaking therapists are available, mostly in Beşiktaş, Şişli, and Kadıköy. Sessions ₺1,500–3,000. Online platforms (Tovuti, Hiwell) connect you to Turkish-licensed therapists.

    💡 BetterHelp and other foreign platforms work too if you prefer a non-Turkish therapist — same cost as anywhere.

  • Emergency: 112Essential

    Single number for ambulance, fire, police, all emergencies. Operators usually speak some English. Private hospitals will dispatch their own ambulance if you call them directly.

    💡 For non-emergencies, Uber to the private hospital is faster and cheaper than waiting for a public ambulance.

Banking & Money

6 items·Updated May 2026
  • Opening a Turkish Bank AccountEssential

    Requires your residence permit + tax number (vergi numarası). Major banks for expats: Garanti BBVA, İş Bankası, Yapı Kredi, DenizBank. Account usually opens same-day.

    💡 Garanti has the best English app and is the most foreigner-friendly. Bring originals: passport, permit, tax number, proof of address.

  • Tax Number (Vergi Numarası)Do this first

    Free, 10 minutes at any tax office (vergi dairesi). Required for almost everything: bank account, phone contract, utilities, property purchase.

    💡 Get this BEFORE your bank/residence permit appointment. The Beyoğlu tax office is the most foreigner-friendly in central Istanbul.

  • Using Foreign Cards

    Visa/Mastercard work everywhere. Withdraw from major bank ATMs (Garanti, İş, Yapı Kredi) to avoid sketchy fees. Watch for “dynamic currency conversion” — always choose Lira.

    💡 Wise and Revolut both have good Lira rates and no hidden FX margin — easier than transferring to a Turkish account for small amounts.

  • Currency & Exchange

    Lira (TRY) is volatile — check the rate the day you exchange. Döviz büfeleri (exchange booths) in Sirkeci, Kapalıçarşı, and Aksaray have the best rates. Avoid airport and hotel desks.

    💡 Big amounts? Negotiate — anything over ~USD 5,000 usually gets you a slightly better rate at the booth.

  • Taxes for Foreign Income

    After 6 months of residence in Turkey you’re considered a tax resident. Worldwide income theoretically taxable. Most expats with remote foreign jobs use a tax accountant (mali müşavir).

    💡 Ask members for a recommended mali müşavir who handles expats — fees ₺2,000–5,000/year, well worth avoiding mistakes.

Mobile & Internet

6 items·Updated May 2026
  • SIM Cards (Tourist vs Resident)Essential

    Tourist SIM at the airport: ₺1,800–2,500 for 20 GB, valid 30 days. Resident plan (after permit + tax number): ₺200–500/month for unlimited. Turkcell, Vodafone, Türk Telekom are the big three.

    💡 Phones brought from abroad get IMEI-blocked after 120 days unless registered with customs (₺20,000+ fee). Plan for a local handset or eSIM if staying long.

  • Best Carrier for ExpatsAdmin Pick

    Turkcell has the widest coverage and best English app. Vodafone is often cheapest for data-heavy plans. Türk Telekom for fibre + mobile bundles if you have a fixed address.

    💡 Switch carriers any time — number portability works the same day. Use it to negotiate when your contract renews.

  • Home Internet (Fibre)

    Türk Telekom, TurkNet, Superonline, and Vodafone Net all offer fibre. 100 Mbps starts around ₺400/month; 1 Gbps in covered areas around ₺900. Installation 3–10 days.

    💡 Check Türk Telekom’s coverage map before signing — fibre is everywhere central but spotty in newer outskirts.

  • VPN Notice

    Some sites and apps are intermittently throttled (Discord voice, certain Telegram channels, the .com Wikipedia at times). Most expats run a paid VPN as default.

    💡 NordVPN, Mullvad, ProtonVPN all work reliably. Free VPNs are unreliable here — pick a paid one.

  • Wi-Fi Etiquette

    Cafes, malls, and metro stations have free public Wi-Fi — usually requires SMS verification to a Turkish number. Many cafes share the password verbally if you ask.

    💡 Avoid banking on public Wi-Fi without a VPN. Mobile data is so cheap in Turkey it’s often easier to just tether.