Moda, Istanbul: What to Do, Where to Eat and How to Get There

What is Moda?

Moda is the seaside end of Kadıköy, on a small peninsula about a kilometer south of the ferry piers. It’s where Kadıköy slows down: tree-lined streets, old apartment buildings, tea gardens on the cliff and a shoreline park where half the neighborhood seems to gather at sunset.

Moda isn’t a separate district. It sits inside Kadıköy, and much of it falls within the official Caferağa neighborhood (mahalle), but everyone simply calls it Moda. It grew as a residential quarter from the 1870s, when wealthy families built mansions here, and the churches, schools and old houses from that period still shape its streets.

Kadıköy or Moda?

Locals often say “Kadıköy” for the whole area, but the two feel different on the ground. Central Kadıköy, around the piers and the market, is the busy part: ferries, the metro, food shopping, crowds and most of the bars. Moda starts as you walk south and the streets turn residential, with more cafés, independent shops and the sea at the end of almost every road. The line between them is blurry, Moda has its busy weekend corners, and most people treat the two as one long walk.

Things to Do in Moda

Walk Moda Caddesi

Moda Caddesi is the neighborhood’s main street, running from the edge of central Kadıköy down toward the sea. It’s lined with cafés, bakeries, bookshops and small restaurants, and the side streets on either side are worth a detour.

Visit Moda Pier and its library

Built in 1916–1917, the neoclassical Moda Pier (Moda İskelesi) is more than a century old. Over the decades it served as a ferry pier, a gazino (music hall) and a restaurant. After a restoration by Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality, it reopened in August 2022 as a book café and public library.

The upper-floor library holds around 7,000 books in a room right above the water, with a terrace and outdoor study space. It’s free to walk in, and one of the most pleasant places in the city to read for an hour. Borrowing needs İBB library membership, which you can set up through the İstanbul Senin app or e-Devlet.

Sit in a tea garden above the sea

Moda Aile Çay Bahçesi is a long-running outdoor tea garden on top of the hill, with tables under umbrellas and wide views over the Sea of Marmara. It’s simple, inexpensive and busy with every age group, which is exactly the point.

Watch the sunset from Moda Coastal Park

Below the tea garden, Moda Sahil Parkı (Moda Coastal Park) wraps around the tip of the peninsula, with lawns, rocks at the water’s edge and views across to the Historic Peninsula. On warm evenings it fills with picnics and groups of friends, and it’s one of the best free places in Istanbul to watch the sun go down.

In summer, Smileys members meet here for a picnic on most Saturdays. Join our Picnic club to see the next dates, and bring something to share.

Visit the Barış Manço House

Barış Manço, one of Türkiye’s best-loved musicians and TV personalities, lived in Moda, and his house is now a small museum. It’s closed on Mondays, and tickets are sold online only, so check the official page before you go.

See a play at Moda Sahnesi

Moda Sahnesi is an independent theater and cultural center in a former cinema that opened in 1969. Twelve partners turned the building into a theater in 2013, and it now runs plays, film screenings and events. Most performances are in Turkish, so check the program for anything with surtitles.

Look out for Moda’s old buildings

Moda’s past is still visible as you walk, from All Saints Church to the French Lycée Saint-Joseph, founded in 1870. Most are working churches, schools or private buildings, so enjoy them from the street.

Walk the coast to Fenerbahçe

From Moda, a waterfront path continues around the bay past the Kalamış marina toward Fenerbahçe and its lighthouse park. Go as far as you like and turn back when you’ve had enough. It’s one of the most pleasant long walks on the Asian side.

Where to Eat in Moda

Moda is better for cafés and long breakfasts than for big-name restaurants. The local ritual is kahvaltı, a Turkish breakfast of cheese, olives, tomatoes, eggs, honey and bread with endless glasses of tea, eaten slowly on weekends. On a weekday you can do the same thing on the move: a simit, the sesame-crusted bread ring sold from carts and bakeries, and a çay in a tulip glass.

• Ice cream: Dondurmacı Ali Usta on Moda Caddesi is a neighborhood institution, with dozens of flavors in summer and salep, the hot milk drink, when it gets cold.

• Breakfast and coffee: the streets around Moda Caddesi are full of independent cafés and bakeries. Weekend breakfast is popular, so expect a wait from late morning.

• Dinner: Moda has small restaurants and wine bars. For meyhanes, fish and the market’s street food, walk back toward central Kadıköy.

How to Get to Moda

Every route ends in central Kadıköy, and from there you walk. Moda is about a kilometer from the ferry piers, either along the waterfront or up through Bahariye and down Moda Caddesi.

• By ferry: Şehir Hatları city ferries cross to Kadıköy from Karaköy, Eminönü, Beşiktaş and Kabataş, and private operators run some crossings too. It’s the most enjoyable way to arrive. Sailings thin out in the evening and last departures vary by route and season, so check the Şehir Hatları timetable before you rely on a late boat back.

• By metro and Marmaray: the M4 metro ends at Kadıköy, near the piers. From the European side, Marmaray trains connect with the M4 at Ayrılık Çeşmesi.

• By tram: the T3 nostalgic tram is a one-way loop that starts by the piers, climbs through Altıyol and Bahariye, circles through Moda and returns via Mühürdar. It has been suspended for track renewal since October 19, 2026 and is expected back in early 2027. Replacement electric vehicles run in the meantime but skip the Kilise, Moda İlkokulu and Moda stops. Check Metro İstanbul for current service. Even when the tram runs, walking is usually just as quick for the short stretch from the piers to Moda.

Pay for all city transport with an Istanbulkart.

A Half-Day Walking Route

This loop starts and ends at the Kadıköy ferry piers. Every stop is optional; skip whatever doesn’t interest you.

1. Kadıköy piers to the market: cross the road from the ferries into Kadıköy Çarşı for breakfast, a simit or a look at the food stalls.

2. Up Bahariye: walk up through the pedestrian streets of Bahariye, past shops, cafés and the Süreyya Opera House.

3. Down Moda Caddesi: turn onto Moda Caddesi for coffee or ice cream, and look for Moda Sahnesi on the way.

4. Moda’s residential streets: wander the quieter side streets to the Barış Manço House and All Saints Church on Yusuf Kamil Paşa Sokak.

5. Tea with a view: stop at the tea garden on top of the hill.

6. Down to the water: walk into Moda Coastal Park, then along the shore to Moda Pier for its library and terrace.

7. Back along the waterfront: follow the shoreline north to the Kadıköy piers, or keep going south toward Fenerbahçe if you have time.

For more on the market, Yeldeğirmeni and Kadıköy’s nightlife, read our Kadıköy guide.

When to Visit Moda

Daytime is quieter, good for the Barış Manço House, the pier library and a slow breakfast. Late afternoon is when the tea garden and Moda Caddesi fill up. Sunset brings everyone down to the coastal park, so arrive a little early if you want a spot on the rocks. In the evening, the park stays lively in warm weather, and the action moves to Moda’s restaurants and to the bars of central Kadıköy. Weekends are busiest throughout, and spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons for walking.

Practical Tips

• Accessibility: Moda Caddesi and the coastal path are fairly level, but the streets between them are hilly, and the rocks in the park are uneven.

• The park after dark: take your rubbish with you, and keep belongings close in crowds.

Is Moda Worth Visiting?

Yes, especially if you want to see how Istanbul relaxes. There are no major sights to tick off. You come for the walk, the tea garden, the library above the water and the sunset, and that’s the appeal.

For the European side across the water, read our Beyoğlu guide.